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Fresh Pea Soup

Fresh Pea Soup

Fresh English peas have an all-too-brief season in early summer. Barely cooked in a stock scented with leeks, then pureed to creamy smoothness, they make a lively green soup with paradoxical qualities: rich and flavorful, yet light and fresh.

Choose peas with plump green pods, not shriveled or limp. Gently pinching the pod, you should feel a little resistance — if the pod collapses when pressed, the peas inside will be tiny (the peas are usable, but you’ll need to buy more of them to compensate for their size). But avoid pods that have shrunk to show the outlines of the individual peas inside: they have started to dry out and the peas will be tough and mealy.

As a variation, try topping the soup with a chiffonnade of fresh thyme or mint leaves, instead of or in addition to the basil. The soup can also be made a day ahead and served chilled.

— Serves 4

*Items marked in green are available from The Gourmet Corner.

Ingredients

  • 2 Tbs Échiré unsalted butter
  • 2 large leeks
  • 4 cups water or low-sodium chicken stock
  • 5 cups freshly shelled peas (about 5 lbs unshelled) or 2 (10-ounce) packages frozen peas
  • 1 tsp La Baliene Sea Salt
  • 1/2 tsp freshly-ground 4-color peppercorns (whole)
  • 1/2 cup creme fraiche
  • 1/4 cup thinly sliced chives
  • 1/4 cup fresh basil leaves

Fresh Peas

Directions

Slice leeks in half vertically and wash them carefully, being careful to get all the sandy grit out from between the leaves. Cut off the tough dark green portions of the leaves and set aside. Chop white and light green parts into 1/2-inch pieces.

Fresh peas and basil

In a large, heavy pan, bring 4 cups water or chicken stock to a boil. Add the dark green sections of the leeks and reduce heat to a simmer. Simmer for 25 minutes, then remove from heat. Strain out the leeks and place them in a sieve, then use the back of a spoon to press the liquid out of them, adding the liquid back into the leek stock.

Heat the butter in a large saucepan, add the chopped leeks. Cook over medium-low heat for 5 to 10 minutes, until they have softened, but do not brown them.

Add the leeks to the stock, increase the heat to high, and bring to a boil. Add the peas and cook for 3 to 5 minutes, until the peas are tender. (If using frozen peas, cook 3 minutes.) Remove from heat and add the salt and pepper.

Puree the soup in batches. Return to pan and bring just to a boil, stirring to mix. If too thick, add a little water or more stock, then taste and re-season with salt if necessary.

Ladle the soup into bowls. Stir the creme fraiche until smooth, then top each bowl of soup with a dollop of creme fraiche and sprinkle with chives. Quickly slice the basil leaves into fine threads (they discolor if cut ahead of time). Scatter basil over bowls and serve immediately.

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